This is a step by step + eco-friendly guide on several different methods that can be used for storing fresh herbs. These methods focus on using more sustainable materials compared to traditional storage methods - such as storing herbs in a single use plastic produce bag or plastic tupperware. (HINT: NO plastic is used in these methods!)
We've ranked each method in descending order from longest --> shortest time of freshness.
Length of freshness time will vary by each herb type. But in general, hardy herbs will store better for longer periods of time when compared to soft herbs. Hard herbs are generally herbs that have a more woodsy stem and harder leaves. Soft herbs would generally be any herbs with softer stems and more tender leaves.
HARD HERBS: Rosemary, Thyme, Sage, Oregano, Lavender, Tarragon, Marjoram, Sweet Bay
SOFT HERBS: Basil, Parsley, Cilantro, Mint, Chives, Dill, Lemon Balm, Shiso
BENEFITS of using eco-friendly storage:
Method details and examples included below!
We found that the airtight stainless steel container is great for keeping herbs fresh in the fridge for 2-3 weeks!
Stainless Steel is a great green material as it is 100% recyclable. Additionally, steel is very durable, lightweight and easy to clean.
Time
Prep Time: 5 min
Time to use: use within 2-3 weeks
Materials
Instructions
1. Gather FRESH HERBS OF CHOICE - either harvest your own with your SCISSORS/SNIPS. Or buy from your local grocery store. We are using Fresh Rosemary grown at home in a container.
2. Trim herbs as needed with your SCISSORS/SNIPS, remove any brown or damaged leaves.
3. Wash / soak FRESH HERBS room temperature tap WATER.
4. Place washed FRESH HERBS on your CLOTH and gently remove any excess WATER.
5. Spread herbs out as a thin layer on the CLOTH and repeat as needed
6. Place each CLOTH with FRESH HERBS inside the STAINLESS STEEL CONTAINER and gently stack layers.
7. Close and label the herb name and date with your WAX PENCIL on the container. ***This is optional but I have found it to be so helpful to remember how old the herbs are!
8. Store in the fridge for up to 2-3 weeks (pending herb type used).
Silicone is a better material option than plastic as it is more durable, reusable, and recyclable. It also does not contain harmful chemicals such as BPA found in most plastics. Silicone is made from Silica - which is derived from sand. Sand is not an unlimited resource, but it is more abundant. The manufacturing process of Silicone does not involve the mining of crude oil - which is how most plastics are made.
The downside of Silicone is that it is not biodegradable, and needs to be taken to a special facility to be recycled (you cannot just throw in your household recycling bin).
Stasher partners with Terracycle which allows you to send your damaged or stasher bags that have reached their end of life. It is completely free and they provide you a free shipping label to ship directly to them and recycle.
Time
Prep Time: 5 min
Materials
Instructions
1. Gather FRESH HERBS OF CHOICE - either harvest your own with your SCISSORS/SNIPS. Or buy from your local grocery store. We are using Fresh Peppermint grown at home in a container.
2. Trim herbs as needed with your SCISSORS/SNIPS, remove any brown or damaged leaves.
3. Remove lower leaves from the bottom few inches of the stems (use or compost them!)
4. Add WATER to your CLOTH so that it is damp, not soaked.
5. Gently roll herbs with bottom stems on top of the damp CLOTH and fully wrap. Secure wrap with your RUBBER BAND / TIE.
6. Place your wrapped FRESH HERBS inside the SILICONE BAG and seal closed.
7. Label the herb name and date with your WAX PENCIL on the container. ***This is optional but I have found it to be so helpful to remember how old the herbs are!
8. Store in the fridge for up to 2 weeks (pending herb type used).
Glass is the ideal material option in terms of sustainability. Glass is infinitely 100% recyclable and reusable. Additionally, the manufacturing process of recycled glass has an even smaller carbon foot print (less energy and natural resources are used to melt used glass).
There are a couple different ways you can use glass containers for storing herbs. We will break them down into option (2A) Open Glass Container and (2B) Close Glass Container below.
2A CLOSED GLASS CONTAINER
Time
Prep Time: 5 min
Time to use: use within 3-5 days
Materials
Instructions
1. Gather FRESH HERBS OF CHOICE - either harvest your own with your SCISSORS/SNIPS. Or buy from your local grocery store. We are using Fresh Ao Shiso grown at home in a container.
2. Trim herbs as needed with your SCISSORS/SNIPS, remove any brown or damaged leaves.
3. Add WATER to your CLOTH so that it is damp, not soaked.
5. Add damp CLOTH to the bottom of your GLASS CONTAINER.
6. Place your FRESH HERBS on top of the damp CLOTH and seal closed.
7. Label the herb name and date with your WAX PENCIL on the container. ***This is optional but I have found it to be so helpful to remember how old the herbs are!
8. Store in the fridge for up to 1-2 weeks (pending herb type used).
2B OPEN GLASS CONTAINER
Time
Prep Time: 5 min
Time to use: use within 1-2 days
Materials
Instructions
1. Gather FRESH HERBS OF CHOICE - either harvest your own with your SCISSORS/SNIPS. Or buy from your local grocery store. We are using Fresh Aka Shiso grown at home in a container.
2. Trim herbs as needed with your SCISSORS/SNIPS, remove any brown or damaged leaves.
3. Wash / soak FRESH HERBS room temperature tap WATER.
4. Place washed FRESH HERBS on your CLOTH and gently remove any excess WATER.
5. Remove lower leaves from the bottom few inches of the stems (use or compost them!)
6. Place your FRESH HERBS in the GLASS with WATER just high enough to cover the bottom stems. Do not let leaves sit in the water or they will get moldy.
7. Store in a cool location on the countertop for up to a few days (pending herb type used).
NOTE: To extend the life of fresh herbs using this method, you could add a bag to cover the exposed herbs and store them in the fridge. I have found for soft herbs, when left uncovered in the fridge the herbs will start to brown due to oxidation (exposure to too much oxygen).
We love using materials such as cotton because cotton and other natural fabrics (linen, silk, etc) are renewable resources. The biggest benefit of Cotton is that it is completely biodegradable. However, you need to be mindful of where you are purchasing your cotton. Depending on where and how Cotton is sourced can be harmful to the environment. Cotton requires a lot of water to be grown and some cotton manufacturers use tons of chemical fertilizer and pesticides to grow cotton which is very bad for the environment. If possible, try to buy Cotton fabric that is organically grown and processed. Check that it is GOTS or OCS certified.
After testing out the Cotton Cloth bag for herb storage, we have found that it is best to pair the Cloth bag with another form of reusable wrap to to keep the moisture around the herbs and not soak the fabric bag. With this method we have found that the cloth bag will only keep your herbs fresh for max 2 to 3 days so this is not the best if you need to store your herbs for a much longer period of time.
This storage method would probably be most comparable to if you just bought herb fresh herbs from the grocery store and put them in one of those plastic produce bags and then put it in your fridge however with this method you don't use any plastic (take your cloth produce bag to the grocery store) and you're using a reusable cloth bag.
Time
Prep Time: 5 min
Time to use: use within 1-2 days
Materials
Instructions
1. Gather FRESH HERBS OF CHOICE - either harvest your own with your SCISSORS/SNIPS. Or buy from your local grocery store. We are using Fresh Basil grown at home in our raised bed.
2. Wash / soak FRESH HERBS room temperature tap WATER.
3. Trim herbs as needed with your SCISSORS/SNIPS, remove any brown or damaged leaves.
4. Remove lower leaves from the bottom few inches of the stems (use or compost them!)
5. Place washed FRESH HERBS on your CLOTH and gently remove any excess WATER.
6. Gently roll herbs with bottom stems on top of the REUSABLE WRAP and fully wrap. No need to secure as this wrap sticks together
6. Place your wrapped FRESH HERBS inside the CLOTH BAG and tie closed.
8. Store in the fridge for up to 1-2 days (pending herb type used).
Any container that provides an airtight seal will keep your herbs the freshest for the longest period of time. Containers that are not sealed or open containers should be only used for herbs that you will use within a day or 2.
If you are unable to use your fresh herbs in time, alternative methods such as drying or freezing can be used.
Step by step video guide is also available on our YouTube
Please leave any questions or comments below!
]]>A step by step guide on using natural materials to remove rust. Demonstrated on heavily rusted stainless steel trimming scissors!
Prep Time: 5 min + Soak overnight
Cleaning Time: 5 - 20 min pending how how heavily rusted each tool is
2. We applied a thin layer of CAMELLIA OIL using our CLOTH to loosen up the initial layer of rust.
3. Next we poured WHITE VINEGAR into our GLASS TRAY. Make sure to add enough so that your RUSTED TOOL is completely submerged.
4. Lay your RUSTED TOOL on your CLOTH. Coat the tool with BAKING SODA and use your OLD TOOTHBRUSH to coat evenly. Apply to both sides.
NOTE: This toothbrush is 100% compostable, but before composting - we like to use for cleaning small crevices!
5. Add your RUSTED TOOL + BAKING SODA to the GLASS TRAY w/ VINEGAR. Soak time really varies on how rusted your tool is. You might only need to soak for an hour or 2, we let this soak overnight for about 24 hrs.
NOTE: the vinegar will fizz and foam up once you add the baking soda, so add slowly and carefully to avoid making the mixture over flow.
6. Remove your RUSTED TOOL from the VINEGAR solution and place on your CLOTH. Wipe dry.
7. Use your RUST ERASER to remove any rust spots or blemishes still on the RUSTED TOOL. This step is essentially like sanding the tool, except we are NOT using sand paper.
NOTE: It is easier for this step if your tool is disassembled. I did not disassemble for this demonstration and it is difficult to work around the screw and join area on the scissors.
8. Apply a thin layer of CAMELLIA OIL all over the TOOL w/ your CLOTH to help prevent future rust. Also, keep your steel tools a cool and DRY location and not sitting outside in the rain :)
9. Our TRIMMING SCISSORS might not looking perfectly new, they are free of rust!
10. To ensure your tool is still functioning properly, try using the tool before putting away. We cut a few plant stems to make sure the scissor blades still cut well.
11. As a reminder, make sure you are using a RAG / CLOTH that you do not care about - as you can our cloth is completely filthy and covered in rust stains.
TIPS TO AVOIDING RUST
Step by step video guide is also available on our YouTube
Please leave any questions or comments below!
]]>This guide provides an overview of our most used eco-friendly gift wrap techniques. Using environmentally friendly materials for gift wrap is not just a trend, but the future of gifting as it reduces waste and saves money in the long run.
BENEFITS of using eco-friendly wrapping:
Method details and examples included below!
FUROSHIKI (風呂敷) are a type of traditional Japanese square wrapping cloth with knots - used to transport clothes, gifts, or other goods. Today, Furoshiki can be used in many re-usable ways:
Furoshiki are also a much more eco-friendly alternative to traditional wrapping methods as there is zero waste (no paper, no tape) when you use wrapping cloth.
Time
Prep Time: 5 min if wrapping cloth needs to be ironed or steamed
Wrap Time: 2-3 min
Materials
NOTE: Otsukai Tsutsumi folding method is one of the most basic and simple Furoshiki wrapping methods. It is easiest to wrap objects that are square shaped with this method.
There are numerous Furoshiki techniques, many vary pending the object you are wrapping – i.e. the “Bin Tsutsumi” method is best for wrapping a wine bottle or taller shaped object. Below are examples of other Furoshiki wrapping styles:
BENTO BUKURO (弁当袋) Japanese lunch bag. Sewn cloth bag traditionally used in Japan to wrap and transport bento boxes, goods or gifts.
History of Bento:
Time
Prep Time: 5 min if bag needs to be ironed or steamed
Wrap Time: 1 min
Finishing Time: 2-5 min pending decorative add ons
Materials
Ideally use a bag made with a natural material such as cotton, linen or silk.
Furoshiki are also a much more eco-friendly alternative to traditional wrapping methods as there is zero waste (no paper, no tape) when you use wrapping cloth.
NEWSPAPER (新聞)We used an upcycled DAIYO (Japanese Rice Candle brand) newspaper we had on hand - it’s gorgeous and so happy to re-purpose this as wrapping. You can also use any type of paper for wrapping that you have available – magazines, paper bags, kraft paper from packaging, etc.
Time
Prep Time: 5 min if bag needs to be ironed or steamed
Wrap Time: 1 min
Finishing Time: 2-5 min pending decorative add ons
Materials
BONUS FINISHING OPTIONS (applies to all methods):
Use natural matierals that can be reused or biodegradable. We have used GREENERY with our Furoshiki.
We have used dried flowers with our Bento bag
And we have used Jute twine with our upcycled newspaper wrapping method.
All of these decorative finishings can be composted or disposed outside to naturally break down which again helps reduce waste in our landfills!
TIPS: If you are going to add GREENERY to your any of your wrapping methods - make sure to use something that is either already dried, hearty, and/or will dry out nicely. If you add wet, or flimsy plants/flowers they may wilt, shed, or stain your fabric.
Step by step video guide is also available on our YouTube
A step by step + eco-friendly guide on how to grow an avocado seed using paper, a storage bag and our Propagation Disc (HINT: no PLASTIC is used!)
You can also sprout avocados using the: WATER SPROUTING METHOD. Also Plastic free!
Prep Time: 5 mins per Avocado
Grow Time: 2-4 weeks to Root + 2-4 weeks to Sprout
2. Remove the SEED from the Avocado center and enjoy your Avocado to eat separately :)
3. Wash the AVOCADO SEED in WATER and clean off any excess avocado from the seed with your TOWEL.
Soak your AVOCADO SEED in WATER for 1-2 days. This will help loosen the skin, and make it easier to remove.
4. Remove your AVOCADO SEED from the water and carefully peel the skin off with your fingers. If it is too difficult to peel off, it may need to soak in water for another day or so to loosen the skin.
***NOTE: It is not required to remove the skin from the Seed for it to grow. But, it makes it much easier and faster for your seed to sprout without the skin, as the skin is an additional layer for the roots and sprout to break through in the growing process.
5. Wrap your peeled AVOCADO SEED in PAPER and quickly soak in WATER.
6. Place the wet paper wrapped AVOCADO SEED in your BAG and store in a cool and dark location (like inside your cabinet).
7. Periodically check your wrapped AVOCADO SEED every 1-2 weeks.
After 2-4 weeks (approximately) - you should see your AVOCADO SEED start to crack in the middle and a root will grow from the BOTTOM of the seed.
7. Place your rooted AVOCADO SEED on a PROP DISC over a glass of water. Please make sure the roots are always submerged in water. As the plant and roots grow, you will need to add more water to the glass.
8. After another 2-4 weeks (approximately) - you should see your AVOCADO SEED start to sprout from the TOP of the seed and leaves will start growing.
After an additional, 2-4 weeks your Avocado plant leaves will mature and grow additional leaves. The stem will also grow in height.
***NOTES ON PRUNING: You can prune or trim the Avocado stem during the growing process. Cut the stem just above a node with a leaf if you want the plant to grow a thicker and taller stem. Or, you can cut the overall stem height in half to make your plant branch out and grow bushier (vs. taller).
You do not need to trim the Avocado plant, I have many plants that I have left without pruning and they grow just fine as well.
We will do a separate blog post on pruning soon with additional images as we get questions on pruning often!
8. OPTIONAL: After your AVOCADO SEED sprouts you can pot in your PLANT POT with POTTING SOIL. I have found, once the Avocado plant is planted in soil, it grows much faster as the Soil provides more nutrients than growing in water.
***NOTE: You can technically leave your Avocado Seed growing over water for as long as you'd like BUT if you plant in Soil it will grow faster and it will get more nutrients in Soil vs. Water.
Step by step video guide is also available on our YouTube
Further Steps
Please leave any questions or comments below!
_____________
If you are interested in growing an Avocado from seed via the WATER SPROUTING METHOD:
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A step by step guide on how to easily regrow your Scallions or other stem veggies in water. Scallions are also known as green onions, or Negi ネギ : Japanese type of green onion.
Regrowing vegetables is not only cost effective, but will help reduce your produce waste!
Washing & Cutting: 1 min
Growing: 3-7 days
Stem vegetables are plant stems that are used as vegetables (Celery, Asparagus, Broccolli). Scallions (also referred to as green onions) are vegetables derived from various species in the genus Allium and are also Stem vegetables.
Negi ネギ, ねぎ (also called Naga Negi, Shiro Negi, or Tokyo Negi) is the Japanese name for Welsh onion. Compared to a traditional green onion in the US, it is longer, thicker, and has a larger amount of white stem. We offer Ao Negi as part of our JAPANESE HERB SEEDS set. Technically, Negi is also a vegetable, but it is often treated as a garnish or add on so we included it with our herb set :)
There are many different types of scallions that come in various lengths and diameters pending the region they are grown. Essentially, they are all very similar in taste and can be used interchangeably in cooking and for regrowing purposes.
All types of stem vegetables can also be regrown in water using this method.
1. BUY / GROW YOUR STEM VEGETABLE
You can purchase from your local grocery store - Scallions usually comes in a bundle of 6. Or grow your own from Seed (Negi takes approximately 40-50 days to grow from seed to maturity)!
2. USE YOUR STEM VEGETABLE
Wash and cut / chop up the top part of the stem vegetable you are going to use for cooking (or freeze to use at a later date).
3. SAVE THE BOTTOM ROOTS
I prefer to cut the top half of the Scallion to ensure the remaining stem and roots are tall enough to stand easily when moved to water. You can use more of the stem vegetable just as long as you save the very bottom roots.
4. ADD FRESH WATER TO GLASS
Add fresh, clean water to a glass of your choice. We are using a short glass for the freshly cut roots.
NOTE: do not fill water too high as you do not want any of the stem sitting in water (will grow mold / get slimy) only fill high enough to cover the bottom roots
5. WATCH STEMS GROW IN WATER
After about 4-5 days you can go ahead and use the new grown stems on the Scallions. You can also leave them to grow longer for about 7-10 days max. Once they have reached their max growth or height, the stems will start to brown at the top stems.
6. CHANGE OUT WATER EVERY 1-3 DAYS
It is very important that you check and replace the water frequently with this method. Pending on your location and the environment, you may need to change the water more often in a warm + humid location.
If you forget to change the water, after a week or so for example - the water gets mirky, mold will grow/form, and it will smell! If this happens - you want to make sure you thoroughly clean your glass with soap before repeating this method.
Always ensure that the water level remains just above the roots and water is CLEAN.
You can re-grow the same roots at least 3-4 times. The re-grown stems will get thinner each time you cut back. Once the stem is too thin to be usable add to your compost!
If you prefer, you can also plant the roots in Soil (indoors by a sunny window or outdoors if it's warm enough). Just make sure to water the Scallions to keep the soil moist and ensure they are receiving enough sun.
STEM VEGETABLES that can be re-grown using this method:
Please leave any questions or comments below!
Step by step video guide is also available on our YouTube
]]>A step by step guide on using the "Sailboat" method for creating your own ikebana arrangement for FREE!
No need to buy expensive flowers (although you still can do this if you prefer). Utilize plants and greenery found around your home or on a nature walk to make your own ikebana inspired arrangement.
Gathering plants / greenery: 10 - 45 min (longer if you gather on a hike!)
Assembly: 5-10 min
Ikebana is the art of Japanese floral arrangement.
I learned this simple "Sailboat" technique from my friend and former employee Nozomi Morita when we had our studio / shop based in Los Angeles. Nozomi was born & raised in Osaka, Japan, she was taught ikebana from her mother who is certified in ikebana in Japan.
We are going to use the "Sailboat method" as a very rough guideline for making an ikebana arrangement. So with that in mind - I want to make sure that I gather some very tall and slender stems for the mast, something short and full for the front of the boat, and a few options that are taller / full in shape for the Sails.
2. GATHER GREENERY:
I gathered a variety of plants, most of which I do not know the identity and may even be weeds. One of my favorite selections is actually the blooms from our English Ivy, which I did not even realize it flowered and they are pretty!
3. ORGANIZE YOUR GREENERY
Place all the greenery you gathered in your DEEP BOWL of WATER to ensure they stay well hydrated. Sort out which pieces your would like to use for each section of the "Sailboat." For example - the tallest stems will be used for the "mast"
4. CUT OR TRIM ANY STEMS IN WATER
Once you've narrowed down the stems you would like to use for your arrangement, trim and adjust heights as needed. When cutting, it is best to cut INSIDE the bowl with water to increase the plant's "vase" life.
NOTE: Why you should always cut stems underwater:
When the stem is cut in air, the plant immediately loses access to water. As air flows through the stem, an air pocket is created and prevents the absorption of water.
*** Please remember to dry your scissors after getting wet to prevent rust! ***
5. ARRANGE GREENERY ON KENZAN
Going with the Sailboat method as a rough guideline for our arrangement.
5a. I am starting with the tallest stem(s) for the MAST at the center of the BOAT BASE (kenzan)
5b. Next I'm adding the English Ivy Blooms to the front of the boat (BOW) - as this is going to be the main feature so I want it to be front and center.
5c. Now I will add an unidentified plant the left Sail or MAIN SAIL - this should be a taller and most full stem.
5d. For the final Right Sail or JIB, I am adding the flowering stems that are slightly shorter than the left Sail, but still have some fullness.
5e. For the BOAT, you can use any vessel of choice - we are using a short drinking glass for this example.
6. ADJUST / FINESSE / TRIM AS NEEDED
7. PLACE IN YOUR DISPLAY CONTAINER OF CHOICE
OPTION 1: Short Drinking Glass - make sure to fill water level to above the top of the kenzan so that the stems are able to absorb the water.
OPTION 2: Porcelain Tray - same as above
Always ensure that the water level remains above the top of the Kenzan!
To extend the life of your plants / flowers, it is best to trim stems (underwater) and change out the water daily if you can.
Step by step video guide is also available on our YouTube
Please leave any questions or comments below!
]]>A step by step guide on how we set up, built, and filled our first raised garden bed in Durham, NC (Planting Zone 7b).
+ the many lessons we learned throughout the process!
PLACEMENT PREP | 1-4 hours pending conditions |
BED BUILD | 1-2 hours |
BED SET UP | 1-2 hours |
BED FILL | 1 hour |
PLANNING | 1-3 hours |
PLANTING | 1 hour |
We chose to build simple DIY wood raised beds instead of planting directly in the ground. Due to our poor Soil quality, excess of weeds and invasive vines, and poor drainage - planting direct in ground was not a good option for us. When we built our first raised bed, we had also just moved into our house and the previous owners did not maintain the yard at all, so our experience might have required a lot more labor than what you will need!
1. SOIL QUALITY - Raised beds allow you to create your own Soil quality which is ideal if your ground soil quality is Poor.
2. SOIL TEMPERATURE - Since your raised bed is above ground, Soil temperatures will stay cooler in the Summer and warmer as temperatures drop.
3. BETTER DRAINAGE - The elevation of the raised bed and less compacted soil will allow water to drain more easily and prevent flooding in your garden.
4. LESS WEEDS - Soil in your raised bed will be less compacted (no one is walking on it). Compacted soil has less air pockets and creates poor drainage. The Soil in your bed will have increased air flow and better drainage, which in turn will allow for healthier plant growth and less weeds. Bonus: if you add cardboard at the bottom of your raised bed, it will act as an additional weed barrier.
5. EASIER ACCESS - the taller the bed, the less you need to bend over to access it!
6. MOVABLE - Although you probably do not want to re-locate your raised bed, if you discover you did not select the right placement or need to move your bed for the next season, you can!
7. EASY TO BUILD - Most raised beds are pretty simple to build since you are typically just making a rectangle :)
8. COST EFFICIENT - building your own raised bed will be more time consuming, but material costs will be at least half of what you would spend on buying a pre-made bed. You also have complete control over what materials to use.
NOTE: it is recommended that the maximum width of your bed is 4 ft. to allow you to access the middle of the bed from either side (essentially within arm's reach.)
2. PREP THE PLACEMENT: We had to spend a lot of time prepping our space for the Raised beds. Our property was overridden with invasive vines and weeds in the ground. This step might be easier for others that do not need to remove all the excess vegetation as we did.
As you can see, the dogs really enjoyed helping with this step :)
3. BUY / GATHER MATERIALS FOR THE BED
LUMBER
Due to lumber shortages and limited availability we ended up using 1"(thickness) x 4" wide x 8 ft. long unfinished CEDAR WOOD. This is not the cheapest wood option especially with pandemic pricing. We wanted to use Cedar as it is naturally water, rot, and pest resistant so the top choice for raised beds. Ideally you would buy 2" thick lumber so that the bed will last longer but it just wasn't available for us. Our back up option was to use PINE WOOD as this is also workable but will not last as long as CEDAR.
It is also important to note, for those that do not purchase lumber often (such as myself) - listed dimensions for lumber are typically slightly smaller than actual measurements. For example:
Listed Size: 2" x 4" x 8 ft.
Actual Size: 1.5" x 3.5" x 8 ft.
You can also use available found materials, I've seen people use logs, concrete blocks etc. You just want to make sure you DO NOT use any TREATED/PAINTED LUMBER or any material that has a coating or finish. If you you are planning to grow anything you plan to eat in your raised bed, I would not recommend risking any finishes/chemicals, etc leaking into your soil that you are growing food.
***There have been studies that contamination from using Treated Lumber for Raised beds is "minimal" but in my personal opinion, I would not risk this.
SCREWS
Screw length needed will depend on the thickness of your wood, We used 1 1/2" and 2 1/2" screws to assemble the majority of the bed.
4. BUILD THE BED
Because of our limited lumber options, we decided to build 8ft long x 4 ft. wide x 8" deep Raised beds. There are PDFs and many different lay out plans you can find online, but we just built a really basic rectangle and simply added additional vertical wood pieces for support.
1. CUT wood (measurements shown in image above). You can either get these cut in advance at your local hardware store or cut yourself with a saw.
2. LAYOUT wood sides (8 ft and 4 ft for ours) and stack wood for each side piece.
3. ATTACH wood 8" wood supports with screws at center and each side. Add additional supports in between if needed for longer bed sizes.
***On 4ft Side pieces we left 2" space on each side for joining the corner pieces.
4. JOIN side wood pieces at corners and secure with screws.
5. LEVEL THE BED
Ideally, you will place your raised bed on level ground. Unfortunately for us, our yard slopes downwards towards the fence. It's hard to tell in photos, but you can easily notice when you place the bed down and it doesn't sit flat. Once our bed was built, we placed it where we wanted it to be set up and then had to dig and shift dirt to the back side to eliminate the slope. It does not need to be perfect but using a LEVEL does help!
6. FILL THE BED
LAYER 2: CARDBOARD - re-use any old shipping boxes if you can! This layer will help block weed growth and naturally break down as time continues. I do not recommend using landscape fabric or any fabrics as a weed barrier as these are typically made from plastic or synthetic materials. I prefer to avoid using these both for environmental purposes and to avoid growing food that would be contaminated by these materials / toxins.
LAYER 3: OLD LEAVES / TWIGS - gather from your yard if possible! These will naturally break down over time and add nutrients to your Soil.
LAYER 4: ORGANIC COMPOST - use your own or buy in bulk / bags at your local hardware store. For our first bed we purchased about 8 bags of Organic Mushroom Compost since our own compost was not ready yet. For our 2nd and 3rd raised beds we were able to use our own home compost which is significantly cheaper if you can do this.
LAYER 5: ORGANIC TOP SOIL - buy in bulk if possible or purchase bags at local hardware store. We used about 12 bags of Organic Top Soil. For future beds, we ended up adding more compost, manure and other materials so that we needed less Top Soil (6-8 bags).
***It is also best to fill the bed all the way to the top edge, or even have it go higher as the Soil and materials will settle and sink down over time.
LAYER 6: (OPTIONAL) NATURAL FERTILIZER - add earth worm castings, manure, or other amendments to add nutrients to your beds.
7. SET UP FOR SQUARE FOOT GARDENING (OPTIONAL)
I enjoy square foot gardening because it makes it really easy to plan your Raised bed garden. Pending your raised bed size - you just need to create a grid with 12" x 12" squares. We used our WAX PENCIL and RULER to make the placement for our 3/4" FLAT HEAD SCREWS top edges of the bed. After you mark the placements then you can add your SCREWS but only screw in about halfway down so there is space between the screw head and the wood. Next you use your COTTON TWINE to make the grid. Start at one end and wrap the twine several times around the screw and then bring directly across to the other side. You can either tie off one by one or use 1 connected twine in total to make the entire grid. Since our bed is 8ft x 4 ft we had 8 squares in the length and 4 squares in the width.
8. PLAN PLANT PLACEMENT IN BED
For our first raised bed, I tried to focus on growing plants that we like to eat the and that also can be costly to buy at the grocery store. We like to eat a lot of fresh tomatoes, bell peppers, cucumbers, herbs, edible flowers, and squash (not very expensive but wanted to try growing them).
Pending your location, it is important to check when is the right time to plant outdoors, this is a great resource that will use your zip code to create a vegetable planting guide:
I did a lot of research on companion planting, here is a great resource for reference:
It's also important to know what plants should NOT be planted near each other.
Once I had a good idea of what I wanted to grow, I drew out a grid with 4 x 8 squares. I used these Square Foot Planting Charts to determine how many of each plant to place in each square.
Honestly, this part of the process can feel very overwhelming so I'm glad that we just started with one bed and limited what we wanted to grow.
Here is my square foot layout plan for our first raised bed:
It's important to take plant height into consideration, as you don't want to plant Tomatoes in the front of your bed and have them shade everything that is planted behind them.
9. PLANT SEEDLINGS OR SEEDS IN BED!
I ended up buying a bunch of established seedlings from our local nurseries and hardware stores to plant in our raised bed. Since we had just moved earlier in the year, I started most of my seeds a bit too late. But, I did have a few of my own seedlings and some radishes and beet seeds I planted directly in the bed.
Here is the final bed after planting. I had added Squash, Zuchinni and Cucumber to the back row after and only got 1 blurry photo (on right).
We have added 2 additional raised beds since our first and made a few improvements along the way. I have also switched to primarily growing all plants from seed, which is significantly more affordable than buying seedlings. I will share an update on all of our beds and progress soon!
Always ensure that your raised beds are receiving enough full sun throughout the day. We realized after planting our first bed, that one of the nearby trees was severely shading our bed during peak sun hours. We ended up cutting down the tree and noticed everything grew much faster with the additional sun! ***We have so many trees so this wasn't a huge issue for us.
For watering, we started out just watering our Raised bed with our hose. You might want to invest in setting up an irrigation system to make watering easier and more efficient, especially if you have multiple beds.
We also periodically add a layer of our own compost, earthworm castings, or manure as the Soil settles down and to help provide additional nutrients to our vegetables as they are growing.
Step by step video guide is also available on our YouTube
Please leave any questions or comments below!
]]>Moss poles are a great addition to support your tropical climbing houseplants. The natural habitat of these plants is a tropical rainforest (hot, moist, lush). Any of your climbing plants - typically Aroids such as plants in the Philodendron or Pothos family, prefer a moist environment and a solid place to climb that mimics their natural environment.
This is a step by step guide on creating a simple Moss Pole with Coconut Coir Sheeting + Spagnum Moss to support your climbing houseplant.
Assembly Time: 10-15 minutes per pole
Potting with Coco Pole: an additional 10 minutes per potted plant
You can easily create your own DIY Climbing Pole following these simple steps:
1. Select your CLIMBING PLANT OF CHOICE and check the Pot size. We are using a Philodendron Bipennifolium (aka Philodendron Horsehead) in a 6" Pot.
NOTE: For this size Pole you will need to use a pot that is at least 6" in depth so that it is deep enough to hold the Pole.
2. Soak your dried SPAGNUM MOSS in a bowl of WATER. A little Moss goes a long way and will double in size once it is soaked in the water. Only add enough water so the moss is wet, you do not need tons of excess water.
2. Lay out your 2 ft. COCONUT COIR MAT flat on a table and place your 3 ft BAMBOO STICK at then end of the mat with the 1ft extra length hanging at the bottom of the mat.
3. Cut your COCONUT COIR approximately 6-8" in width. Width depends on how thick you would like to make your pole. We cut 6" to make a slimmer pole.
4. Next add an even layer of SPAGNUM MOSS on top of the BAMBOO STICK and COCONUT COIR MAT along the entire length of the mat.
***Don't add too much MOSS just as you should not add too much rice when you are making a SUSHI ROLL. If it has too much filling, it will be hard to roll and will spill out the sides.
5. Tightly roll the mat keeping the SPAGNUM MOSS concealed inside the COCO COIR.
***Just as you would roll your SUSHI ROLL - roll forwards while holding the filling with your fingers.
6. Grab your WIRE and starting from the bottom. Set 2-3" up from the bottom edge - wrap and secure with WIRE.
Next, tie the top off 2-3" from the top edge with WIRE. Then tie the center with wire.
NOTE: You can also you string instead of wire, but we have found wire is easiest to maneuver.
7. Add More wire evenly spaced between the center, top and bottom, We added (7) wires total but you can add as few or as many as you desire.
***Wire placement should be added just as you would cut your SUSHI ROLL - start with larger sections and add more wire as needed to achieve the desired size/spacing.
Double check all MOSS is secure inside COIR and does not fall out - give the pole a quick shake.
10. Now that your Coco Coir Moss Pole is complete - we recommend adding to your PLANT OF CHOICE when you are re-potting so that you can safely place the base of the pole next to the root of your plant.
NOTE: If you insert the pole into a Potted Plant (without re-potting) you risk damaging the roots!
11. Next, be sure to gently wrap your PLANT OF CHOICE around the pole to encourage it to climb up the pole as it grows. We are using more WIRE to securely attach the plant to the pole.
NOTE: Please be sure to tie loosely with your wire or whichever material you are using, as you do not want the wire to cut or hurt your plant as it grows.
Once your plant + moss pole are potted - be sure to mist or water your Moss pole to keep moist. If your environment is more dry, you will need to water more frequently.
We prefer to use a watering can with a spout and water from the top of the pole to let the water drip down the pole. But you can also just use a spray bottle to mist the pole as well!
As your plant continues to grow, you can continue to help guide the stems around the moss pole and secure it with more wire or string as needed.
Lastly, if your plant out grows your moss pole you can build a larger moss pole. Or, you can technically attach another pole to the end of the existing pole to the extend the height, but it will be a challenge keeping this balanced!
Alternatively, once your plant reaches the top of the Moss Pole, you can train it to grow back down the Pole for additional space.
Final Notes:
There are many methods for creating moss poles and different types of moss poles in existence. We prefer this specific method, as Spagnum moss can be messy when used on its own. Moss is a great material for retaining moisture and requires less misting (yay!). In combination with the moss, Coconut Coir acts as the perfect outer layer to contain the Spagnum Moss. The coir visually presents a cleaner look and you can avoid dealing with flaking moss as it dries. Lastly, this pole is made of all natural materials for your houseplant to climb on.
Step by step video guide is also available on our YouTube
Bottom watering is a method of watering your plants from the bottom up. When you place your plant into a container of water, the water is pulled up through the bottom drainage hole by the plant. This technique is used as an alternative to watering from the top.
This is a step by step guide on bottom watering your houseplants using a humidity tray + the benefits.
Prep Time: 5-10 min
1. Select your PLANT OF CHOICE and check the Pot size. We are using our Avocado Seedling planted in a 4" diameter PLANT POT. To bottom water, your plant pot MUST have a drainage hole.
2. Select your TRAY/BOWL to bottom water - size should be wider in diameter than your selected Plant Pot.
PLEASE do not use a TERRACOTTA TRAY as it will absorb the water and leak. It is best to use a non-porous tray material such as Metal (that will not rust), Glass or a Glazed Ceramic/Porcelain.
3. Add clean PEBBLES in a thin layer covering the bottom of your TRAY - spread out evenly.
***More detailed humidity tray instructions and tips can be found HOW TO MAKE HUMIDTY TRAY
4. Add your PLANT centered onto your HUMIDITY TRAY. Do not include your PLANT POT saucer if it has one.
5. Check the current moisture of your Plant Soil either with a moisture meter or just your finger or a chopstick works too! If Soil is dry a few inches below the top soil, proceed with BOTTOM WATERING.
6. Add WATER to your HUMIDITY TRAY so that the water level is ABOVE the top of the rocks and reaching the bottom of your PLANT POT.
7. Let PLANT sit for about 10 minutes. Check the Soil moisture again. It should be moist just below the top of your Soil.
8. If the SOIL is still dry, repeat soaking process. But do NOT let it soak too long or this can cause your plant to soak up too much water and lead to root rot.
9. Once PLANT has received enough water. Just make sure your Humidity Tray water level is BELOW the top of the rocks. This ensures the drainage hole is not absorbing water and that it is now only acting as a humidity tray (adding moisture to the air around your plant).
9. If you are using a BOWL to bottom water - you can return your plant to its Saucer.
BENEFITS:
FURTHER STEPS
If you continue to bottom water your plants, periodically top water them to flush out any salt and mineral build up, once a month or so. Salt and mineral build up is a problem you need to watch out for with bottom watering.
]]>Step by step guide presenting 3 different techniques for incorporating pebbles with your houseplants.
Prep Time: 3 min
Fill GLASS with water about halfway full.
Add PEBBLES *gently* to bottom of GLASS with water. Add enough to atleast cover the bottom of the glass.
Insert roots of PLANT OF CHOICE through your PROP DISC.
Place PLANT with PROP DISC on top of glass with water.
Top off water in glass to fill close to top of edge. Ensure to check water levels and refill as it evaporates over time.
OPTIONAL: Place glass on top of your PLANT COASTER to prevent water rings on your table/countertop.
BENEFITS:
Prep Time: 5 min
Materials
Add a layer of POTTING SOIL into your PLANT POT w/ a SOIL SCOOP.
Place your AVOCADO SEEDLING into Pot w/ soil and fill with Soil about 2" from the top edge.
WATER your plant! Please make sure you have a saucer under your Plant Pot to prevent water from spilling everywhere. NOTE: you want to water BEFORE adding the top dressing because the Soil will sink down a little once wet.
Add a layer of PEBBLES onto the top Soil around your plant. Make sure to add enough so the entire top layer of Soil is covered
BENEFITS:
Prep Time: 5 min per method
1. Select your HUMIDITY LOVING PLANT OF CHOICE and check the Pot size. We are using our Avocado Seedling propagating in a 3" diameter GLASS.
2. Select your TRAY - tray size should be at least 2" wider in diameter than your selected Plant Pot. We are using our 5 5/8" PORCELAIN TRAY.
PLEASE do not use a TERRACOTTA TRAY as it will absorb the water and leak. It is best to use a non-porous tray material such as Metal (that will not rust), Glass or a Glazed Ceramic/Porcelain.
4. IF NEEDED: Rinse your PEBBLES thoroughly in a STRAINER to remove any dirt from them and until water runs clean.
5. Add your clean PEBBLES in a thin layer covering the bottom of your TRAY - spread out evenly.
6. Add your WATER to your PEBBLES + TRAY. Only add a small amount to cover the bottom of your rocks. Water level should stop before the top of your Rocks.
7. Add your PLANT centered onto your HUMIDITY TRAY!
NOTE: You can use any type of PLANT POT with or without a drainage hole.
BENEFITS:
***Our more detailed instructions and tutorial can be found HOW TO MAKE HUMIDTY TRAY
FURTHER STEPS
Once complete with any of your Pebble methods - keep an eye on water levels. You may need to check every other day or just 1-2 times per week pending how dry and warm your room is. If your environment is more dry, the water will evaporate more quickly and you will need to periodically add more water to your Propagation Glass, Potted Plant or Humidity tray.
Step by step video guide is also available on our YouTube
There are many different methods for seed starting out there, but we wanted to share our top 5 tips for successful seed starting. These tips are steps we've learned over the years that are most helpful (in our experience)!
TIP 1: START WITH A GOOD SEED STARTING MIX
Use a good SEED STARTING MIX for your Seed Starts. Please don't use old soil, and make sure your mix is light and airy - not compacted so it's easy for your seeds to germinate (sprout).
TIP 2: USE A TRAY TO CONTAIN THE MESS
After you have added your SOIL MIX to your CONTAINER(S), you should use a TRAY underneath your Seed Starts to catch all of the excess water. Your seeds & seedlings are going to require a lot of water to grow, so the tray will help contain the mess.
TIP 3: LABEL AND DATE YOUR SEEDS
Label each Seed Start with the Seed name and Today's date. This helps you keep track of what you planted and also track how long it took for each Seed to germinate (sprout).
TIP 4: ONLY ADD 1-3 SEEDS PER POT PENDING SEED SIZE
After you have moistened your soil, add 1-3 seeds to each container. For larger seeds such as CILANTRO you can place 1 seed in the container. For smaller seeds such as DILL and BASIL we added 2-3 seeds per container.
Add a thin layer of soil over your seeds - for smaller seeds a thinner layer of soil is needed, larger seeds need more. Top off your Seed Starts with a little more WATER.
For planting depth - general rule of thumb: the seeds should be covered approximately DOUBLE the size of the seed - for these seeds we added about 1/4" of soil.
TIP 5: KEEP SEED STARTS IN BOTH A WARM AND SUNNY LOCATION
Place your Seed Starts in a sunny windowsill that receives at least 6 hours of full sun. Please make sure they are not left under a vent or drafty window. If you do not have a window that is workable, we highly recommend using grow lights!
Step by step video guide is also available on our YouTube
A great way to preserve and enjoy your edible flower blooms. You can grow your own flowers or buy fresh from the market.
This is a step by step guide on creating your own Floral Ice Cubes.
Prep Time: 3 min per layer
Freeze time: 6-12 hours per layer
1. Select your EDIBLE FLOWER OF CHOICE (grow your own or purchase fresh). Flower blooms should typically be used within 2-3 days. It is ideal to harvest them right before using so they are the most fresh. Below are Wild Violets from our yard that we had readily available.
TIP: If you do buy or harvest your flowers and can't use immediately, the flowers will last longer in your fridge if you store them in an airtight container. I kept some flower blooms in the fridge for almost 2 weeks - they started looking very sad so I just added them to my compost. Ideally, use them as soon as possible.
Other edible flower blooms that can be used:
Please make sure to know what the flower is before using and be sure it is edible and safe to eat!
We also have a seed pack of Edible Flowers if you want to try growing your own from Seed:
For this example, we are using VIOLAS:
2. First and foremost - rinse your FLOWERS. Whether you grew them or bought them from the store - always rinse them in TAP WATER to remove any dirt or potential bugs that may not be easily seen.
3. Select your ICE CUBE TRAY - we are using a Cocktail Tray with 2" ice cubes. Since these are larger cubes we are going to create the floral ice cubes in 3 layers. To start, fill each cube 1/3 full with DISTILLED WATER*
*NOTE: Using distilled water will keep the frozen cubes more clear. You can purchase distilled water or just boil water at home to make it distilled.
4. Add 1-5 flowers to each cube - pending on your FLOWER size. The Violas we are using are fairly small, so we are adding several flowers to each cube. You can add flower petals or full flower blooms to each cube.
NOTE: We recommend freezing in at least 2 layers so that all your flowers do not float to the top. Layering ensures some of the flowers will freeze in the center. If you are using smaller trays such as 1" cubes - you could do these in 2 layers.
5. Place 1/3 filled ICE CUBE TRAY in freezer for at least 6 hours or overnight.
6. For Layer 2 - fill your ICE CUBE TRAY another 1/3 full with DISTILLED WATER. Add FLOWERS as previous step and quickly place in the freezer.
TIP: Work quickly as things will move around if they melt.
7. For the final layer - repeat filling the rest of the cubes to the top (not too full) with DISTILLED WATER, add your FLOWERS, and freeze the ICE CUBE TRAY for another 6 -12 hours
8. Now your cubes should be ready to use! Add floral ice cubes to your favorite beverage of choice and enjoy. It's always a surprise how these turn out :)
NEXT STEPS:
Floral ice cubes are best if used within 2 -3 weeks.
LEARN FROM MY FAILS:
TIP 1: Freeze in layers. If you don't freeze in layers for Large ice cubes and small flowers - your flower will just float to the top!
TIP 2: Use Distilled water. If you don't use distilled water aka Tap Water - your ice cubes will likely look cloudy once frozen.
TIP 3: Fill with flowers. If you don't add enough flowers to fill the cube, your ice cubes will look a bit sad and underwhelming!
Step by step video guide is also available on our YouTube
This is a step by step guide on creating a basic cloth gift wrap using the Otsukai Tsutsumi Furoshiki folding method.
FUROSHIKI (風呂敷) are a type of traditional Japanese square wrapping cloth with knots - used to transport clothes, gifts, or other goods. Today, Furoshiki can be used in many re-usable ways:
Furoshiki are also a much more eco-friendly alternative to traditional wrapping methods as there is zero waste (no paper, no tape) when you use wrapping cloth.
Prep Time: 5 min if wrapping cloth needs to be ironed or steamed
Wrap Time: 2-3 min
NOTE: Otsukai Tsutsumi folding method is one of the most basic and simple Furoshiki wrapping methods. It is easiest to wrap objects that are square shaped with this method.
1. Select the object you are planning to wrap.
We are wrapping our SQUARE 6" BOX with our Porcelain Tray inside.
2. Select your FUROSHIKI CLOTH OF CHOICE.
(2A) FUROSHIKI SIZE: The size of your Furoshiki should be about 3-4 times the size of the object you are wrapping. This is an approximate guideline!
Traditional furoshiki cloth are not a perfect square, but if you are making your own you can cut a square and just keep in mind it does not need to be exact.
Size formula example:
OBJECT: 6" (multiple by 3 or 4). Furoshiki size can be approximately 18"-24"
We are using our 25"x 25" (63.5cm) LINEN FUROSHIKI
(2B) FUROSHIKI FABRIC: Traditional Japanese Furoshiki are made using an all over printed cotton cloth. But if you are making your own cloth, you can use any material you have available on hand, preferably not too thick or it will be too bulky to wrap and tie.
We do recommend also adding a finished hem to your fabric of choice. If you leave the fabric raw edge (unfinished) - it will fray.
3. SET UP: Before wrapping, place your CLOTH flat on a table (iron as needed!). Then place BOX at one of the corners of the cloth, the edge of the object should be parallel to the corner.
Fold the corner of your CLOTH onto the BOX, hold securely so fabric stays flat (no tape!). See image below:
4. WRAPPING: Roll CLOTH + BOX all the way to the opposite corner. Flip over (if needed) so bottom corner as at the bottom of your wrapped CLOTH + BOX.
5. Pinch fabric on one side of the box at the corners to create a tie (keeping fabric as smooth and tight as possible).
6. REPEAT on other side of box.
7. Hold ties tightly with each hand and pull tightly towards center. Make sure your corners are tucked :)
Make 1 tie and pull tightly.
FINISHING OPTION (7A): Add your GREENERY on top of 1st tie. Finish with 2nd tie:
FINISHING OPTION (7B): NO GREENERY - Make 2nd tie and pull tightly, clean up fabric at bow and straighten corner at front overhang if needed.
FINISHING OPTION (7C): Add GREENERY after 2nd tie and tuck into your bow or under knot.
FINISHING OPTION (7D): If you don't like the flap hanging over the edge - tuck in corner flap so that the fold is lined up with the top edge of the box. With or without GREENERY.
NOTES: If you are going to add GREENERY to your Furoshiki wrapping - make sure to use something that is either already dried, hearty, and/or will dry out nicely. If you add wet, or flimsy plants/flowers they may wilt, shed, or stain your fabric.
COMING SOON...
There are many different Furoshiki wrapping techniques - we would like to create a library of how to wrap for each method in the future. Below are some examples of other wrapping styles:
Step by step guide on creating a humidity tray for your houseplants.
Prep Time: 5 min
Whether you live in a dry environment, or dealing with seasonal dry weather - your houseplants prefer to have humidity year round.
If you do not have a humidifier or would like to add an additional humid micro-climate for your plants - you can easily create your own humidity tray following these simple steps:
1. Select your HUMIDITY LOVING PLANT OF CHOICE and check the Pot size. We are using a Monstera Siltepecana in a 3" PLANT POT.
2. Select your TRAY - tray size should be at least 2" wider in diameter than your selected Plant Pot. We are using our 5 5/8" PORCELAIN TRAY.
PLEASE do not use a TERRACOTTA TRAY as it will absorb the water and leak. It is best to use a non-porous tray material such as Metal or a Glazed Ceramic/Porcelain.
NOTE: You can also use a much larger sized TRAY and group multiple smaller plants on the tray if you'd like.
3. Select your ROCKS / PEBBLES / GRAVEL - we are using our 1cm PEBBLES.
NOTE: I prefer to use larger PEBBLES or ROCKS instead of gravel as you need less to fill the trays.
4. Rinse your PEBBLES thoroughly in a STRAINER to remove any silt from them and until water runs clean.
5. Add your clean PEBBLES in a thin layer covering the bottom of your TRAY - spread out evenly.
6. Add your WATER to your PEBBLES + TRAY. Only add a small amount to cover the bottom of your rocks. Water level should stop before the top of your Rocks. This is to prevent your plant from soaking up the water from the drainage hole and being over watered.
NOTE: IF your plant it really dry, you could add additional water to above the top of the rocks so that you can bottom water your plant if desired.
FURTHER STEPS
Now that your Humidity Tray is complete - keep an eye on the water levels. You may need to check every other day or just 1-2 times per week pending how dry and warm your room is. If your environment is more dry, the water will evaporate more quickly and you will need to periodically add more water to your tray.
DISCLAIMER: I have tested these humidity trays using my own hygrometer, I am not a scientist. Using a humidity tray is recommended for slightly increasing humidity levels or increasing humidity in a small area. If you drastically need to increase humidity in your room or home, I do recommend trying a humidifier.
Step by step video guide is also available on our YouTube
Step by step guide on creating a small batch of steeped Compost Tea for your plants.
Prep Time: 5 min
Brew Time: 30 min - 24 hrs
Compost Tea is essentially an organic liquid fertilizer for your plants. Use Compost Tea to add nutrients to your plants, stimulate growth, and prevent diseases. Tea can be used every other week.
Makes 3-4 cups of Compost Tea:
1. Scoop approximately 1 cup of ORGANIC COMPOST into your DRAWSTRING BAG.
2. Place BAG + COMPOST into your BOWL of WATER.
3. Fully submerge the bag into the WATER and agitate the COMPOST to ensure it is soaking up the water. TIP: if you using a drawstring bag - make sure the drawstrings are inside the bowl or water will leak everywhere!
4. OPTION 1: Let COMPOST Soak for at least 30 minutes before using Tea. This will be a weaker version of the tea but can be used this quickly.
OPTION 2: Continue to let the COMPOST soak for a few hours - up to 24 hours to create a nutrient rich tea.
Now that your Compost Tea is complete - you can use in the following ways:
(1) WATER YOUR PLANTS
After your COMPOST is done soaking - remove the bag of compost and squeeze the excess tea into a WATERING CAN. You can use the tea to water your plants directly just as a liquid fertilizer.
(2) ROOT BATH
You can use the BOWL of Compost Tea as a Root Bath or Dip for your plants. Ideal for plants you are propagating or transplanting. For younger plants you only need to soak the roots for about a minute or 2, for larger more mature plants you can soak for 30 minutes - 1 hour.
(3) FOLIAGE SPRAY
Another option to use your Compost Tea is to pour your tea (maybe after your Root Bath :) into a spray bottle and spray your plant leaves with the tea - spray greens only, not blooms. You can also spray the top layer of soil with the spray as well.
TIP: Avoid spraying leaves in the sun to prevent leaves from burning.
TIP 2: Strain any large bits of compost from liquid before adding to your spray bottle to avoid clogging.
(4) TOP SOIL LAYERING
You can use all of the soaked COMPOST from your BAG and add a 1" layer to the top of your potted plant soil. Leave a little space around the plant when adding.
NOTES: This makes a few cups of compost tea, you can increase the ratios if you would like to a make bigger batch. Measurements can be approximate, a little compost goes a long way!
CREDITS: Compost recipe and methods from Britt Browne of FINCA TIERRA NEGRA
Step by step video guide is also available on our YouTube
A step by step guide on how to grow an avocado seed using water + our Propagation Cones.
You can also sprout avocados using the BAG SPROUTING METHOD. Also Plastic free!
Prep Time: 5 mins per Avocado
Grow Time: 2-4 weeks to Root + 2-4 weeks to Sprout
2. Remove the SEED from the Avocado center and enjoy your Avocado to eat separately :)
3. Wash the AVOCADO SEED in WATER and clean off any excess avocado from the seed with your TOWEL.
Soak your AVOCADO SEED in WATER for 1-2 days.
4. Remove your AVOCADO SEED from the water and carefully peel the skin off with your fingers. If it is too difficult to peel off, it may need to soak in water for another day or so to loosen the skin.
5. Place your peeled AVOCADO SEED on a PROP CONE over a glass of water. Please make sure the bottom of the Seed is submerged in water but the Cone should not be touching the water (fabric will mold and damage if exposed to water over long periods of time).
6. After a 2-4 weeks (approximately) - you should see your AVOCADO SEED start to crack in the middle and roots will grow from the BOTTOM of the seed.
7. After another 2-4 weeks (approximately) - you should see your AVOCADO SEED start to sprout from the TOP of the seed and leaves will start growing.
8. OPTIONAL: After your AVOCADO SEED sprouts you can pot in your PLANT POT with POTTING SOIL.
***You can technically leave your Avocado Seed growing over water for as long as you'd like BUT if you plant in Soil it will grow faster and it will get more nutrients in Soil vs. Water.
Step by step video guide is also available on our YouTube
Please leave any questions or comments below!
]]>A step by step guide on how to clean + shine your houseplant leaves using all natural ingredients available in your home.
Prep Time: 5 min
Cleaning Time: approximately 10-15 mins per 6" plant
Frequency: At least once per month
Why should you clean your plant leaves?
1. PHOTOSYNTHESIS: the process by which plants use sunlight to synthesize foods from carbon dioxide and water.
Dust, hard water spots, and build up on the leaves block the sunlight. Your plants will be able to breathe and grow faster if their leaves are clean.
2. PEST PREVENTION: Cleaning and checking your plant leaves allows you to check the current health of your plants. Adding a mild soap to your cleaning solution will help deter or eliminate existing pests.
1. Select DIRTY PLANT of choice - We are using a Rubber Tree that has been under a vent on a top shelf accumulating dust and spider webs.
2. Create DIY MIXTURE using:
and put in SPRAY BOTTLE.
NOTE: If you've never used this mixture on your plant - we recommend to TEST the mixture on 1 leaf and see how it reacts after a day or 2. If it's fine, it should be safe to apply all over.
3. Shake mixture and Spray DIY MIXTURE on leaves and stems on the DIRTY PLANT.
Try to do this once a month for each of your plants!
NOTE: Avoid leaf shining products or adding oils to your plant leaves. Your plant breathes through its leaves and oils, wax, and other applications could clog it's pores!
Step by step video guide is also available on our YouTube
A step by step guide on how to make DIY Coconut Coir covers for your Plant Pots.
Time: 10 mins per cover
1. Open up your COCONUT COIR MAT and lay flat.
2. Find the best location to place your PLANT POT to trace - try to minimize as much waste as possible!
3. Hold your pot down firmly and trace the outline with your CHALK.
4. Remove PLANT POT and place your ROUND CENTER PIECE at the center of the circle. Trace with CHALK.
5. Use a RULER or straight edge to draw a line connecting the outer circle to the inner circle (This will be a slit for your plant).
6. Carefully cut out outer circle first with your SCISSORS *The coco coir is a little tough so cut slowly!
7. After 1st circle is cut out, cut along your straight slit line and then carefully cut out the inner circle.
8. After cutting is complete - add the COCO COVER to the top of your PLANT OF CHOICE. Adjust cover as needed to fit around your Plant stems and to cover the Soil.
9. Spray Cover with SPRAY BOTTLE + WATER to keep cover Moist!
10. Make sure to continue to water your plant as needed. Spray cover to keep consistently moist (not soaked).
What is Coconut Coir? Everything in between the shell and the outer coating of the coconut seed is considered Coco Coir. It is a natural and renewable resource.
Benefits of using the Coconut Coir Covers on your Potted Plants:
- Helps increase the humidity and moisture levels for your plant. Coconut Coir has excellent water retention.
- Prevents fungus gnats and other pests from laying eggs in your Soil. Coconut coir is naturally pest resistant.
- Created from an eco-friendly + sustainable material
Use the cut scraps from your Coco Mats to use as drainage hole covers!
Step by step video guide is also available on our YouTube
A step by step guide on how to grow sprouting seeds using a glass and water.
Time: 5 mins per sprout container
Follow up Time: 5 minutes 2-3 times per day to rinse seeds/sprouts
Harvest/ready to eat: 4-5 days
1. Place seeds in a clean TALL DRINKING GLASS - we are using 4 grams (approx 2 Tablespoons) - this is using out entire DAIKON SEED PACK will make enough sprouts to fill the entire glass.
2. Add WATER to cover seeds thoroughly
3. Cover glass with your FABRIC square of choice + RUBBER BAND to secure.
4. Let seeds soak for 8-12 hours overnight and keep in a cool dry location. If you are using larger seeds, the longer they soak the better (up to 24 hours).
5. Remove cover, and rinse seeds using your MESH STRAINER and clean WATER. I like to rinse about twice thoroughly in the strainer and then add seeds (without water) back to your glass and add FABRIC COVER + RUBBER BAND.
RINSE, DRAIN, REPEAT
6. Place your container upside down at an angle - to prop up place in a bowl OR on a towel and lean against a wall.
7. REPEAT this process 2-3 times per day and always make sure to keep your angled glass in a cool dry location so your sprouts down fry in the sun!
RINSE SCHEDULE - IMPORTANT (dont rinse enough and will dry out and or develop mold/bacteria)
8. After 1-2 days you will start to see the seeds opening up and the "tails" emerging from the seeds.
9. After 3-7 days your sprouts will be completely grown and you can give them a final rinse and eat. NOTE: you can tell when they are ready to eat when the leaves are bright green and tails are grown.
Sprouts can be stored in your fridge for max 2-3 days. Best to grow a small amount at a time to start!
If your seeds are not sprouting yet or growing slowly - growth could be slower if your home is cold. Simply, keep in a warmer location if possible!
If your sprouts aren't looking very green when full grown - place them in a sunny windowsill for a couple hours and they will brighten.
Step by step video guide is also available on our YouTube
A step by step guide on treating and preventing scale from spreading on your houseplants.
Prep + Cleaning Time: 30-40 mins per plant (depending on size of plant!)
Follow up Time: 5-10 minutes to spot check once per week
WHAT IS SCALE: Sap feeding insects that look like immobile bumps on your plant leaves and stems (simple answer). See example below:
2. Depending on how infested your plant is, you may be able to scrape off the scale with your fingernail, IF it is only a few spots. Our Umbrella plant is far too infested with Scale so please follow next steps.
3. Create DIY MIXTURE using:
***We used 1/2 cup water, 1/2 cup alcohol, 2 tsp soap for this Umbrella Plant.***
and put in SPRAY BOTTLE
4. Shake mixture and Spray all leaves and stems on the infected plant.
5. Spray mixture onto CLOTH (or cotton balls) and rub front and back of every leaf and stem on the plant! I like to use a cloth so that you can more easily wipe the front and back of the leaves at the same time.
6. NOTE: You may need to do this several times as live scale can be hard to remove and might not come off after 1 try.
7. If some of the leaves or stems are too infested with scale to remove, it is better to completely prune these areas with SCISSORS and discard them.
8. Make sure to disinfect your scissors or any tools you are use with RUBBING ALCOHOL after coming in contact with the scale.
9. Once there is no more visible scale on your plant's leaves or stems, re-pot your plant into a new container using new, unused Potting Soil (just in case the soil was contaminated).
10. Now your plant should look scale free!
Please thoroughly check the plants leaves and stems once per week to make sure there aren't any scale larvae that hatched or any spots that were missed.
Repeat application as needed.
***Follow up treatment should be much less time consuming than the original treatment.
Step by step video guide is also available on our YouTube
A step by step guide on braiding your Sansevieria Cylindrica at home.
Prep Time: 20 mins per plant
3. Dry plant and roots with your CLOTH.
4. Stack plants on top of each other - stems should be facing you, roots facing away from you.
5. Grab your TIE material, and cut approximately 18" with your SCISSORS to secure your stacked plants just above the roots (knot fairly tight).
6. Starting from your right, grab 2 stems together and wrap over center 2 stems. Hold securely with both hands.
7. Next, take the 2 stems on the left and wrap over the center 2 stems. Hold securely, not too tight to damage the plant.
8. REPEAT these steps for as long as the length of the stems.
9. If you have any short stems - let these stick out for now, secure the long stems with a rubber band after you cannot braid any more.
10. Next, secure tightly with your TIE and replace the rubber band (we don't recommend leaving only the rubberband as they tend to slide off)
11. For any shorter stems, you can now go back and gently tuck them into the braid.
12. Grab your PLANT POT, POTTING SOIL, and PUMICE STONES.
13. Pot your newly braided Snake Plant in your pot using your SOIL SCOOP.
Step by step video guide is also available on our YouTube
A step by step guide on water propagation using our RT1home Propagation cones.
SMALL STEM - PHILODENDRON HORSEHEAD
LARGE STEM - SANSEVIERIA SAYURI METALLICA
Step by step video guide is also available on our YouTube
In conjunction with our RT1home Recipe Series we want to encourage you to try growing your own herbs! Growing from seed is not only inexpensive, but a rewarding process that allows you to enjoy year round access to fresh herbs for cooking at home. Here is 1 simple method to start growing your own herbs using materials you have at home!
FEATURING RT1home Organic Herb Seeds:
Step by step video guide is also available on our YouTube